Space for PfL members and partners to exchange ideas and share insights and analyses on various issues and topics; includes selected posts by members in the Forum mailing list
My Palestine Visit
By IRFAN ENGINEER
In this seven-part essay, Irfan Engineer shares his insights about the life and struggles of people in Palestine as he recounts in detail his experience during the PfL Interfaith Peace Pilgrimage and Solidarity Visit to Palestine-Israel held on 4-13 November 2007. Irfan heads the Institute for Peace Studies and Conflict Resolution in India and is a member of the Peace for Life Working Group.
My Palestine Visit - I My Palestine Visit - II My Palestine Visit - III
Combatants for Peace Our Stay in Beit Sahour
Hebron and Ibrahimi Mosque Palestine People’s Visions for Peace
My Palestine Visit - I
November 27, 2007; 2:07 PM
Peace For Life organized a Peace Pilgrimage and Solidarity Mission to Palestine. The overall aim of the Solidarity Mission and Peace Conference in Palestine was to express solidarity with the people and popular movements of Palestine, suffering from and engaged in the struggle against, the occupation and oppression of the Palestinian people. There were about 30 participants in the Mission from 13 different countries, including Philippines, Canada, US, Puerto Rico, Pakistan, Sri Lanka, South Africa and India. From India, besides me the other members were: Hussain Dalwai, Prof. Shama Dalwai and Dr. Sandhya Mhatre. The entire tour was planned by Peace For Life along with David Wildman (US) and Chris Fergusson (Canada) who have been leading solidarity actions for justice to Palestine. Alternative Tourism Group (ATG) facilitated the entire tour. ATG’s mission has been to promote pilgrimage and tourism for solidarity with Palestinian people.
We all first assembled in Amman. From Amman, we were to travel to Jerusalem by road through King Hussain Bridge. David Wildman, who has guided several solidarity missions, briefed us about the mission and what should be expected at Israeli check posts. He advised us to be patient at the check posts and read out a verse from Bible teaching us to be patient and not lose hopes at the check posts. Worst case scenario could be that some of us could be denied entry in Israel and arrangements would have to be made to go back to Amman. Women were told that they could be stripped in the name of security check and that in such a situation they alone should decide whether they would permit that. Their refusal would mean they could be denied entry. However, he also gave us hopes that being tourists from several countries, including US and Canada, there should not be much problem.
We crossed King Hussain Bridge and entered into West Bank now under Israeli occupation. We had to wait at the check-post on the border, but fortunately for us the wait was not much longer—about half an hour or so, thanks to David Wildman who introduced us as group of pilgrims from several countries interested in visiting holy sites (which was entirely true). Tourists, even to the occupied West Bank and Jerusalem are important for the Jewish economy of Israel and are welcome. One by one our passports and documents were scrutinized and we were allowed to enter West Bank area of Palestine by Israeli immigration officers in their twenties. It took longer to scrutinize my and Hussain Dalwai’s travel documents—the only Muslims in the group—and I had apprehension for few moments that may be I wouldn’t be allowed. However, after a long scrutiny and a few questions, the lady immigration officer stamped my travel document and welcomed me to “Israel” with a smile. We all were given a slip of paper to be submitted to another officer. The second officer was merely collecting the slips, cursorily checking the passport and allowing everybody to pass. However, when my turn came, he checked it thoroughly and leisurely and then handed it to another officer mentioning something in Hebrew. That officer also scrutinized the passport for some anxious moments, but in the end approved it, the slip was accepted and I was allowed to collect my luggage from the X-Ray machine and enter West Bank area. At the check-post, we saw a Palestinian lady was sitting and crying inconsolably. While purchasing coffee from shop on the check post another Arab customer informed us that the lady was crying for past two days waiting for the officer to cross over to West Bank. It was difficult to find out why she was crying—was it because she was not allowed to enter Palestine in spite of some dire emergency like illness or death of her loved one—your guess can be as good as mine. The Coffee shop did brisk business considering the long waiting period for the Palestinians certainly but for others also.
While in Jordan, our cab driver told us that he also was a Palestinian and dreamt of going to Palestine once. His father was a Palestinian refugee in Jordan and he had some relatives there. However, he would never be allowed to cross the Israeli check post, whatever may be the emergency. He was condemned to live in Jordan. 55% of Jordanians are Palestinians and refugees. No Palestinian refugee (who more often than not have been living there for generation) is allowed to return to Palestine under any circumstances, though according to ‘Law of Return’ every Jew who may have never set his/her foot on the Palestine soil and was citizen of any other country is encouraged to come and settle in Israel, including in territory occupied after the 1967 war and West Bank area and is given citizenship immediately on arrival. But more about all this in other parts.
My Palestine Visit - I My Palestine Visit - II My Palestine Visit - III
Combatants for Peace Our Stay in Beit Sahour
Hebron and Ibrahimi Mosque Palestine People’s Visions for Peace
My Palestine Visit - II
November 27, 2007; 7:29 PM
After crossing the Check Post, we all got into a bus which had been waiting for us. The driver Ali helped us all load our luggage into the bus and we drove towards Jerusalem. All of us on the bus shouted hurrah! as the bus rolled. There were probably no more obstacles. However, about ½ a kilometer away, there was another Israeli Check Post and the bus had to stop. Ali dealt with the officer (probably he reported at every check post that the passengers were international tourists and we would be spared the thorough checking). The Officer at the check post would check a few passports to satisfy himself / herself and with American passports being forwarded first, they would let the bus pass with cursory checking. Every short distance there were check posts and we soon learnt to accept it as a given fact. The American passports saved us the humiliation of thorough checks every time. It was cool in Amman as it is on a height. However after crossing into West Bank, it was a bit hot as we were in Jordan Valley. Our Journey to Jerusalem meant climbing up the mountain and it would be cold again.
The roads in West Bank were surrounded by barren looking land on both the sides. Being desert, very little land was cultivated. The road on which our bus was rolling were constructed by US based companies like Caterpillar on occupied land and they became “Israeli roads”. Palestinian vehicles were not allowed on the road in the apartheid system practiced by Israeli state. We saw hectic construction of roads by Israel on occupied Palestine territory to expand the road network and broaden the roads. In the apartheid system that Israel has developed, there are three types of license number plates issued for vehicles. Vehicles with yellow licensed number plates could move about on any road, including on the roads constructed on occupied territories of West Bank. The vehicles with green coloured numerals on white background license plates were not allowed on the network of roads which connected the Jewish settlements with main roads and highways. The offence of any violation of this rule did not attract fines but summary trial by military courts (we will see the functioning of the military courts a little later) and could mean long prison sentences. The check posts ensured that no violation goes unpunished. The third type of license plate was white letters on green background, which meant that heavily taxed Palestinian commercial vehicle. The whole road system is to ensure that apartheid rules are meticulously followed and Arabs are kept off roads meant for and connecting Jewish settlements. As we were climbing up towards Jerusalem, we could see the Jordan River Valley on our left and tip of Dead Sea. There wasn’t much water in the Jordan River.
In about two hours time, we were approaching Jerusalem. As we entered the beautiful and historical city, we were struck by the beautiful architecture of the city. The walls of the old city and the buildings were constructed with light chocolate coloured stones which are available in abundance in West Bank. Stones from Bethlehem and Beit Sahoor are famous and carted thousands of miles for construction. Jerusalem has witnessed rule of various empires and this was evident from its monuments and even residential constructions. Romans, Umayyads, Ottomans, all ruled in Jerusalem.
Before we reached our destination—Hotel Imperial, we saw five star and seven star hotels, with all modern amenities, including the scarce water, and owned by the Jewish companies. Being holy land for the three communities—Muslims, Christians and Jews, the city attracts tourists all year round from all over the world. While the Jewish companies reap huge profits, the Palestinians are practically left out of the tourism industry, except petty shops with items for tourists and a few hotels.
By 3.00 p.m., we reached Hotel Imperial inside the walled city. The road inside the walled city too was paved with stones. The area of walled city we were in was mostly inhabited by Armenian Christians. There was Armenian Museum and structures with Armenian Architecture. As we climbed the staircases of Hotel Imperial, owned by a Palestinian, we saw the walls decorated by Palestinian artefacts, chandeliers, bells, beautifully woven Palestinian women’s dresses pinned on the walls. It was more of a museum than a hotel depicting the Palestinian life and culture and history of struggle to achieve liberation. It was a sort of political statement—defiance of apartheid and Israeli state. After checking in our room, I was tempted to talk to the owner of the Hotel and he was willing. Greeted me with “mar habba” as well as “namaste”, instantly recognizing me as “Hindi” (as Indians are referred in this part of the world). He told us that to run a hotel for a Palestinian in occupied territory was a great struggle and not easy at all. Right from ensuring water supply to dealing with the Jewish Municipal Corporation for a Palestinian required nothing less than political will and commitment matching that of full time political revolutionaries. Surrendering and selling the hotel to waiting Jews was a much easy option. The authorities did everything to make it impossible for him to run his hotel business so that he would sell his hotel to Jews and allow Jews toe hold within walled city in East Jerusalem. He was holding out and Insha Allah would never surrender his Hotel however adverse the situation might be. The Hotel owner contributed to the Palestinian Liberation struggle by running the hotel. He however lamented the betrayal of some of the Palestinian leaders to the cause. We had a good late afternoon lunch and rested for a while before we were ready for the evening programme. I also meandered into the small by lanes around the hotel where Palestinian shop owners were selling various items to tourists. Seeing us four Indians, the shop owners would call us “Hindi? Namaste” trying to befriend us to vend their goods. We bought a few.
My Palestine Visit - I My Palestine Visit - II My Palestine Visit - III
Combatants for Peace Our Stay in Beit Sahour
Hebron and Ibrahimi Mosque Palestine People’s Visions for Peace
My Palestine Visit - III
December 6, 2007; 11:35 PM
After reaching Jerusalem on 5th November 2007, I went to the tourist office to get to know places of interest in Jerusalem. The map given to us by the tourist office did not show Palestine or even West Bank area represented the entire occupied territory as Israel. That evening, cultural programmes were organized to observe 40 years of occupation of West Bank by Israel. Cultural programme was inside a beautifully designed church and most of the 400 participants, if not all were Christians across denominations and churches. The priests of various denominations were dressed in their traditional attires and made a good sight. Rabbi Jeremy Milgrom also joined us in the cultural event and from there on he was with the group throughout the peace pilgrimage. Though the short speeches and the songs were in Arabic, we could follow the spirit of the energetic and graceful dances and songs. To feel the pain of the singer and the longing of the dancers for freedom, we really did not require knowledge of Arabic. The performers were cheered enthusiastically by the audience. The land can be occupied by force but the spirit of people cannot be occupied by any force or power on earth—that is the sense that I got from performance. It was heartening to see that people living under occupation and denied every human right can still sing and dance, holding on to their culture as their only possession. The programme was organized by “The Sabeel Centre”—an organization which works to make the gospel relevant today, ecumenically and spiritually to the Christians on the land where Jesus first preached message of love and freedom for all people. Sabeel also strives to empower the Palestine community as a whole and to develop the internal strengths needed for participation in building a better world for all.
Next day, Sabeel Ecumenical Liberation Theology Centre took us to tour the historical monuments in the Old City of Jerusalem and compared the 14 stations of the last journey of Jesus Christ from his condemnation to death, to carrying the cross, meeting his mother, to nailing of Jesus on Cross and his consequent death, with the suffering of Palestinian people. The fourteen contemporary stations of the way of cross starts from the Nakba (the catastrophe of 1948 war when Israel was created) to Palestinian refugees, 1967 occupation of West Bank by Israel, devastation of lives of Palestinians under occupation, demolition of homes of Palestinians, to construction of a wall, to harassment of Palestinians at the Israeli check points, permits, Israeli violence in Gaza, to being forgotten by the International Community, and the resurrection of Jesus compared to the undying hope in the Palestinians for their freedom. Sabeel leads tours of Christians to their Holy land and Holy sites and makes them aware that their responsibilities do not end, but begin with the tour of the Holy land—to struggle for justice and peace for all.
Then we met Majid. Majid constructed a four storied building—which is aesthetically and architecturally nothing less than a monument. 22 families were residing in the building. With a great difficulty, he got permission for construction of and the plans were approved. He had to pay several lakhs of shekels to obtain the permission for construction (1 shekel is Indian Rs. 10/- and four shekels equal a US $). Majid approached the officials for slight alteration of the plans to include a porch in front of the entrance of the building. Officials told him to go ahead with the construction and the approval to altered plan would follow soon. Majid constructed the building. Israeli Court subsequently approved the altered plan. He nevertheless received notice for demolition—not of the porch—but of the ENTIRE building as the same was illegal when constructed and subsequent approval notwithstanding! All the 22 families along with children and women living in the building would be on streets in that cold weather! Not only the building would be demolished, Majid would never get permission to construct another building on that land even with approved plans. Such is the Martial law applicable to the Palestinians residing in East Jerusalem. When we queried Majid, he seemed determined to resist any demolition. Demolition, for Majid could take place on his death body. He appeared worried but confident. Several Palestinian officials came to visit Majid and express their solidarity with him and the 22 families. Next day there was a demonstration against the demolition of the building and resistance to the demolition had become symbol of oppression of the occupied Palestinian people. Even President Abbas had appealed to the Israeli state not to demolish the building and vitiate the atmosphere of peace negotiations to be held in Annapolis, US. However, the notice of demolition was not withdrawn. Though we could not join the demonstration next day on account of our schedule, one of us went to the demonstration and reported to the others that there were more than thousand persons who had participated in the demonstration.
The intention of Israeli state in giving demolition notice to Majid was to harass Palestinians and force them to leave Jerusalem. Israel wants to retain its occupation of East Jerusalem and make the whole of Jerusalem as Capital of Israel. According to UN resolution 242, Israel should be vacating the occupation of West Bank and territories occupied after 1967 war, including East Jerusalem. Jewish State of Israel wants alter the demography of East Jerusalem and make it Jewish majority territory to later lay its claim before the international community. Demolition notice to Majid was not an isolated instance. On slightest of violation demolition notices is quite common and later the land is captured. Majid’s building was on border of East Jerusalem and therefore an attractive entry point for the Jewish state into East Jerusalem and therefore the demolition notice to force Majid to sell his land to a Jew who would then construct on the land. To protect one or a few Jewish families, the Military would then put check points and restrict movements of all the Palestinians living in the area and allow them to enter and leave the area with special permits in the name of security of the Jews. This has what has happened in Hebron, which we will see in later instalments. Thus, the Jewish state would, using the demolition to Majid, capture not only that particular piece of land, but also the entire area and foray into East Jerusalem territory. Thousands of Palestinian houses have been demolished in like manner. The Palestinians have formed an organization to resist demolition of their houses, and Jef Halpar is one of the persons actively associated with the committee.
My Palestine Visit - I My Palestine Visit - II My Palestine Visit - III
Combatants for Peace Our Stay in Beit Sahour
Hebron and Ibrahimi Mosque Palestine People’s Visions for Peace
Combatants for Peace
December 18, 2007; 5:32 PM
There are very few Jews who oppose violations of human rights of Palestinians and oppose Israeli occupation—may be just marginal numbers. Two of them were with us as part of solidarity group during our visit to Palestine. Even though the number of Jews who support Palestinian cause may be just marginal, their role, nevertheless, is very important and crucial. When I asked Rabbi Jeremy Milgrom (member of solidarity group) about his citizenship, he was embarrassed. He told me that he was citizen of US as well as Israel and citizenship of both the country embarrassed him. On the bus the Rabbi gave us accounts of his encounters with his Arabic teacher, a Palestinian refugee and his family that helped him being a human and a peace activist.
During our solidarity peace pilgrimage, we met two activists of Combatants For Peace in Jerusalem. One of them was father of a 13 year old daughter who was killed at the check point by an Israeli Soldier while returning from her school. He was not informed of any reason till date as to why his daughter was killed or what was her offence or mistake. That was by any count a colossal loss, very difficult for any parent to bear. While narrating the incident he broke down. But composed himself and said I did not have any urge to seek violent revenge. Reason—his association with Combatants For Peace. His anger was directed not at the soldier on the check point who pulled the trigger, but against the whole apartheid apparatus and the war machine that Israel is. He was aware that nothing would change by seeking a violent revenge from any individual soldier who might have pulled the trigger on his daughter without any rhyme or reason, perhaps out of malice. The cycle of violence would go on. As his revenge would be used as a justification for further violence against Palestinians and entire community would be brutalized. He thought the better way to take his revenge for his daughter’s death was to join hands with other peace loving citizens, including Jews, and harness their collective energies to transform the unjust and apartheid system to a system which respected human rights and which was based on equality and justice for all. Combatants For Peace was all for establishing a peaceful society which was based on justice and equality, and for peaceful co-habitation of Jews, Palestinians and followers of all religions.
The former Israel soldier and Jewish member of Combatants For Peace said he was as much pained as the father of the girl when he heard of death of the young girl. He felt all the more strong urge to hate the apartheid Israeli system and to transform the whole system. He was the first one to comfort the aggrieved father of the girl and felt as if he had lost his own daughter. The burden of death of the teenage girl on the Jewish member was greater—the whole system was operated to privilege him and other Jews and in their name. They picket the checkpoint peacefully and shame the soldiers. It is tougher for the soldiers to fire on crowds having Jews amongst them lest there be Jewish casualties. Palestinian casualties don’t count at all, even if they were entirely non-violent. The Jewish soldier too broke down while describing how he used to play with the little girl.
The Combatants for peace organization was growing. They met regularly, held meetings to decide future course of action, which included picketing house demolitions or violations of Human rights of Palestinians. Activities of Combatants For Peace was very inspiring. It helped sustain humanity in the few Jews who were associated with it and inspired the Palestinians to direct their anger not against individuals committing breach of human rights but against the apartheid practiced by the Israeli State. More important, it sustained the hope that they together would be able transform the system and prepare them for long term struggle rather than wearing out the energies with violent attacks and reprisals which change nothing and no one.
The role of peace loving Jews who are in solidarity with the Palestinians is very crucial for the Palestinian liberation movement, even though their numbers may be small. The urge to be violent and imitate one’s oppressors, to mould oneself in the image of the oppressor often works to the advantage of the oppressor. It is often easier to handle a violent native. Though a natural tendency, violence it is suicidal even as a strategy. Israeli state commands infinitely superior force, including nuclear weapons, air power and bombs of various descriptions. It is nearly impossible to win against such an enemy with small fire arms—even with suicide missions. Violence of the oppressed may be barely able to defend them during resistance and prevent their liquidation, as was the case during recent war between Israel and Hizbollah. Even a few Jews in solidarity with the Palestinians provides a strong reason to resist the urge to resort to violence.
The struggle of people of Bil’in Village near Ramallah, against the Wall on their land is a case in point. Hundreds of them assembled for peaceful protest and resisted the wall and faced the bullets and oppression of Israeli soldiers from February 2005 till date. They were joined by International and Israeli Peace activists. Israeli High court was persuaded to declare the wall being built on the Palestinian land in the name of security to be illegal. Though a small victory, the people of Bil’in village continue their struggle against the wall, settlements, demolitions, apartheid and oppression of Palestinians.
The Bil’in villages victory inspired the residents of a number of villages in the Ramallah area as they organized a protest joined by a number of International and Israeli peace activists at Highway 443, on Friday after the noon prayer. For seven years in a row, Israel prohibits Palestinians from using this 200-mile road which is built on the land of Palestinian villages, and allows only Jewish settlers to use it.
Dozens of residents of al Me’sarah village near the southern West Bank city of Bethlehem were joined by a group of Israeli and International peace activists on Friday at noon to protest the confiscation of their land. The Israeli army installed road blocks to prevent the peace activists from reaching the village. The protestors marched to the lands that will be annexed for the expansion of a nearby settlement and the construction of the Separation Wall. After the Friday prayers some protestors delivered speeches in Arabic and English stressing the need to resist the land confiscation labeling it as “land theft.”
The role of international community in dismantling apartheid in South Africa was very crucial. In stead of blaming Hamas for resorting to violent resistance, we all should ask, what have I done to inspire the Palestinian people to continue with their Non-violent resistance and why has the international community looked the other way encouraging Israeli apartheid?
My Palestine Visit - I My Palestine Visit - II My Palestine Visit - III
Combatants for Peace Our Stay in Beit Sahour
Hebron and Ibrahimi Mosque Palestine People’s Visions for Peace
Our Stay in Beit Sahour
January 9, 2008; 3:19 PM
After Jerusalem, overnight we stayed in Beit Sahour, a Palestinian Village. The 30 odd Peace Pilgrimage delegates were distributed themselves amongst various Palestinian families so that we could get to know Palestinians better. Palestinian families were supposed to host two delegates each. I and Sandhya Mhatre were hosted by Simon, his wife Faraaz and their two children. Simon drove us to his house in his car from the office of Alternative Tourism Group and had prepared a special welcome drink and dinner for us. Simon had hosted many others as well in the past and had arranged the basement of his house for guests with independent access. We had a long chat with Simon and Faraaz after dinner. Faraaz was a school teacher, she had to get up early and she therefore excused herself. Simon had constructed his house in defiance of the Israeli dictates and rules. Though the land belonged to him, he and others were not allowed to construct houses even on their land. Beit Sahour is under Palestinian Authority under the Oslo Agreement. The Israeli soldiers would come anytime to inspect if any new construction was in progress by Palestinians without their permission. If applied for, the permission would never be granted. The only option left was to defy and construct houses. About 20 Palestinian families had constructed their houses on the land owned by them on the hill top along with Simon. Construction would go on mostly during night and during the day time the hill top area would look deserted place. To construct houses in this fashion was as good as fighting a war with Israel. For, if caught, the consequences would not be demolition of the “illegal” house, but court martial as it would violate Military Order. After the construction was completed in this fashion, it was again another humongous task to get electricity and water connections. They managed to get that after heavy lobbying and efforts of Palestinian Authority, they managed to get the necessary electricity and water connections. Simon uses his house to host tourists and never tires to tell them about their struggle. Simon’s house was done very tastefully with the cream coloured stones that are available in abundance in the area.
The population of Beit Sahour was about ten thousand. A little more than 50% were Christians and the rest were Muslims. Simon looked at me amazed when I asked him if there were any tensions between Muslims and Christians in Beit Sahour. I apologetically explained to him that we faced communal conflicts in India and hence the question. He had heard about demolition of Babri Mosque though he didn’t know anything about attacks on Christians in India. Did Islamic fundamentalism bother him? Only a bit. Simon was supporter of Al Fatah party of President Abbas, though he also supported Hamas as they were honest and sincere to their cause. However, he disapproved concept of Islamic State as it would exclude the Christian Palestinians. He kept on repeating that religion and politics should not be mixed.
Simon had a business of wood carvings and had his own workshop. The business had a large market outside Beit Sahour but Simon did not have permit to enter Jerusalem and Check points terrified him. Even to go to Ramallah, which is the largest city under the Palestinian Authority, he would have to pass through Jerusalem for which he had no permit. As a result, Simon could not develop his business and had to wait for customers to come to his workshop. That meant only foreign tourists or Israelis could visit his workshop besides residents of Beit Sahour. Simon had traveled several times to US to tap the US market. He got approved orders and shipped his goods. There is a good demand in US for his products. However, he did not get license to export his goods and was also denied permit to travel to US to develop his market. Whenever in US, he would stay with an Indian and even boasted to us his Hindi vocabulary which was limited to 2-3 words. People in Beit Sahour cannot “export” anything outside their village as all the goods would have to pass through Israeli check points and permits depend on absolute discretion of the Israeli Military. The same is true for “imports” in Beit Sahour. Most of the goods used in Simon’s house were “imported”, right from milk, cheese and salt. Even life saving medicines have to be “imported” and Military check points decide how urgently medicines should be allowed to pass the check point and of which company. Needless to say, that all the decisions are based on the consideration of promoting Israeli companies and economy and thwarting Palestinian economy. I was wandering why Simon was still living in Palestine while he could have emigrated to US and developed his business. His answer was, “come what may, I don’t want to leave my land. That is what the Israelis want. I don’t want them to succeed”. I realized that mere survival in Palestine meant commitment on the part of Palestinians. To leave Palestine would be in many cases, a far lucrative and easy option than the daily struggle to live as a colonized human when every aspect of your life depends on your colonizers, except the air you breathe. Entire life in one village with a population of 10,000?
Simon’s 16 year old daughter wanted to study Management in another country, but she quickly corrected herself and said, she will go to Ramallah and get a job there and study and grow up to serve her Palestine. Brave and committed are the children of Palestine who shun the easy option of leaving their country and are able to dream to serve in their Palestine.
My Palestine Visit - I My Palestine Visit - II My Palestine Visit - III
Combatants for Peace Our Stay in Beit Sahour
Hebron and Ibrahimi Mosque Palestine People’s Visions for Peace
Hebron and Ibrahimi Mosque
January 10, 2008; 7:02 PM
After our overnight stay in Beit Sahour, the next day we went to Hebron to visit Ibrahimi Mosque. From the spot where bus dropped us we had to walk for about one and a half K.M. through a busy and crowded market. All thirty of us following our guide and in a train like formation, struggling to keep pace with the one ahead of us. The train like formation was natural consequence of a group walking together through an overcrowded area. There were shops for various items from clothes to jewellery and the streets were full of hawkers vending eatables, raw vegetables, etc., just like a busy crowded market in Indian city. The streets were so crowded that all of feared all the time that we may lose someone. Then the guide stopped before the check point for all of us to gather once again, i.e. for the bogies to crowd around the engine (guide) for a background briefing.
The area around Ibrahimi Mosque we were about to visit was inhabited by thirty thousand Palestinians with only 300 Jews inhabiting in the area. We were told to be prepared for our security check. We would be allowed to pass through the check point as we were foreign tourists. No Palestinian, who was not residing in the area and whose name is not on the list with the soldier at the check point could enter the area under any circumstance. Not even to attend marriage of one’s relative, or for that matter any other reason. A doctor would not be allowed to enter to check sick patient. To enter the area, you had to be one of the residents of the area with permit, a photo identity and with your name on the list possessed by the soldier. We kept our passports ready and all of us were as thoroughly checked as the passengers traveling by air from a US airport immediately after 9/11. All our bags, purses, blazers, pockets and everything on our body was checked inside out. All the Palestinian residents of the area have to go through this ruthless drill of thorough check-up of all their belongings every time they enter or leave the area. As is applicable to other check points, if one falls sick at night, then no matter how life threatening your sickness may be, you have to wait till the next morning when the soldiers are ready to grant permission for leaving the area. The thorough check was ostensibly to ensure the security of 300 Jews. When we entered the area, there was a stark contrast from the busy crowded market that we left behind. There was not even a ghost on the 500 meters long street from the check point till the Ibrahimi Mosque, except the 30 odd soldiers continuously parading up and down in their vehicles and some on their foot. I felt as if I am passing through a war zone or as if during a communal riot, I have been issued a curfew pass. All the shops were closed and not a soul was even peeping outside his/her window. Soon we passed near a school with children hurrying back home.
We were received at the check point by two “Ecumenical Accompaniers” and they were wearing a jacket with those words written on them. I asked one of them, “why the street was so deserted and why the shops aren’t open?” I was told the streets were as busy as the one we left behind and in fact that was the main market and therefore more crowded. During the intifada curfew was imposed and the shops were ordered to be closed. Though now there was no curfew, due to check points, no one could pass through the street and therefore the shops were closed. “And what happened to the shop owners?”, I asked. Economy on which 30,000 Palestinians were dependent was stifled by the check points to provide “security” to 300 Jews. 30 well armed soldiers with automatic SLRs etc. guarding 300 Jews from Palestinian tax payer’s money! Not a thought about the 30,000 Palestinian, let alone compensation. The shop owners are now paying their debts and hiding their faces and suffering the check points.
“What was this ‘Ecumenical Accompanier’?”, I asked. Ecumenical Accompaniers were church volunteers from Europe, US or Canada. They stayed there for a few months. Their job was to request the soldiers to intervene whenever any Jew resident of the area troubled or harassed or abused the Palestinians and call attention of the soldiers to such harassment. To accompany Palestinian school students returning from school to their home as they were routinely abused and harassed by the Jew with the intention of getting the Palestinians to migrate out and sell their property to Jews. Nobody else would buy the property if a Palestinian sold his/her property as they would not even be allowed to enter the area. As and by way of harassment, even the school students were beaten on their way back home by the Jews residing in the area. With the Ecumenical Accompaniers accompanying the students, the incidents of harassment drastically reduced. For the EAs would just record the incident on their camera and put it on the net and distribute it to international human rights groups. This did act as a deterrent. As we approached the Ibrahimi Mosque we saw one Jewish lady shouting at the EA in threatening tone. The EAs had to undergo such treatment regularly. The role of EA was really salutary. The EA wishing to return to his/her country would be replaced by other volunteers.
As we were preparing to enter the gate of Ibrahimi Mosque, we had to once again go through metal detectors, remove our belts, purses etc. and even more intrusive check than the previous one. Security check of each one of us took at least 3-4 minutes. After the azaan (call for the faithful to pray), hardly 25-30 people could have entered to pray in this historic mosque which has tomb of Prophet Musa and Prophet Ibrahim. Both Jews and Muslims pray at the tomb of Prophet Musa or Prophet Moses from separate windows. A Jewish doctor—Goldestein had entered the mosque a few years ago and fired on those praying inside the mosque. Scores of Muslims were killed by the bullets of the fanatic who could carry his SLR with impunity inside the mosque. The bullet marks were still visible on the walls.
I heaved a sigh of relief after coming out of the area. I was all through feeling as if I was in a jail or else in a area where war is going on. I left thinking how the Palestinians survive in the area.
My Palestine Visit - I My Palestine Visit - II My Palestine Visit - III
Combatants for Peace Our Stay in Beit Sahour
Hebron and Ibrahimi Mosque Palestine People’s Visions for Peace
Palestine People’s Visions for Peace
January 11, 2008; 7:56 PM
During our peace pilgrimage, we talked to various civil society actors about their vision for peaceful resolution of the Palestine Conflict. In this final piece, I would like to recall their voices.
One of the most challenging aspect of any peaceful resolution of Israel-Palestine conflict is solution to the refugee problem. During our meeting with representatives of BADIL Resource Centre in Bethlehem, their representative, Mohammed told us that there were approximately 7 million Palestinian Refugees and 4½ lakhs internally displaced Palestinians (those who have been displaced from their homes during 1948 and 1967 Arab-Israel wars but are living in Palestine as UN refugees). Israel would like to forget the Refugees and IDPs altogether as they do not have right to return in their schemes. Knowing the Israeli sensitivity to the refugee problem, some Palestinian parties like Fatah do not want to rock the boat too much on the issue and would be satisfied with a token number of refugees being allowed to return to their homes, while others are “persuaded” to continue in the country where they have now “settled”, if possible, with a small compensation. Israeli Military operations continued to occupy Palestinian territories and cause displacement. In Gaza Strip in summer 2006, occupied Palestinian territory (OPT) and 5,100 persons were displaced. The wall and its associated regime in the occupied West Bank also forcibly displaced Palestinian communities. Thousands have been displaced from the Jordan Valley as a result of closure, home demolition and eviction orders.
Before we proceed, some facts for understanding the visions for peace would be in place. West Bank and Gaza, which were occupied in the 1967 Arab-Israel War constitute about 22% of the Palestinian land. The rest of the Palestinian land is under Israeli occupation since 1948 war and except a small minority of Arab population, the rest were massacred or fled to save their lives. From the 22% land that is now left for the inhabitation of the Palestinians, 8% land has been grabbed by the Israelis for settlements, construction of wall, eviction, construction of roads to connect the Jewish settlements and other ostensibly security related purpose.
Occupier Israel’s Vision for Peace
Israel has realized that there is no possibility of getting rid of the remaining population of Palestinians now, when they could not get rid of them even after two wars and worst record of human right violations, and harassment of the Palestinians. Having grabbed all the necessary territories, built settlements and connected them through network of roads and other infrastructure, including grabbing water resources of the desert area, Israel is now ready for to let the Palestinians manage and govern in the remaining 14% land in exchange of security guarantees from the Palestinian government. The road network build by Israel is so well segregated that a Jews in the settlements will never have to see face of an Arab if doesn’t want to. The Arabs are not even wanted as cheap labour in Israel. There are plenty of other countries like Philippines to supply them cheap labour. The Israelis want to confine Palestinians in small ghettos interspersed throughout West Bank. The remaining 14% of the territory, seen as interspersed dots on the Israeli Map in the West Bank region could be connected with each through tunnels or separate road network. No right to return and no dismantling of the settlement and security guarantees.
Fatah’s vision for peace
The original objective of Fatah was liberation of Palestine. However, that remained a dream as Palestinians realized that no one was holding their hands and US was supporting Israel with its entire might. Even the Arab countries had betrayed them and after Iraq war, even the pro0verbial last straw for the drowning person to hold on was lost. Therefore make a best attempt to bargain for maximum. Bargain for 22% land minus the settlements and a as a token a few refugees be allowed to return to their land under Israeli occupation. There were quite a few supporters in Ramallah for such a compromise on best possible terms now rather than continuing conflict with Israel. Ramallah being A category region in the Oslo agreement enjoys some autonomy and even though Israeli Soldiers can enter, it does not happen frequently. Ramallah is governed by Palestinian Authority. A resident of Ramallah whom I met in Amman proudly flashed his Palestinian Passport on which he could travel to any country that cared to grant visa. Residents of other regions have to obtain Israeli travel document permitting them to leave the country. Having made limited gains under the Oslo Agreement, Palestinians living in Ramallah and other A category regions want to consolidate their gains to the extend possible, tired as they are of the conflict. They want to get along in life knowing that they are weak party in the conflict and have lost all the hopes. They have their sympathy with the refugees but they feel helpless as well. The only contentious issue of course is that of East Jerusalem. Fatah wants East Jerusalem to be its capital. Israel wants entire Jerusalem to be its capital, including East Jerusalem. Israel as well as Fatah have more or less accepted, what is called as two state solution—Jewish state and Palestinian state. Israel wants liberty to be Jewish state, one of the most fundamentalist state masquerading as a democracy and has enacted law of return, giving right to every Jew in the world to instantly get citizenship of Jewish state of Israel. The Israeli State almost imposes Jewish religion and Hebrew culture on its citizen and discriminates against all other religions and cultures.
Hamas’ Vision
The Hamas Representative we talked to was still holding on to their dream of liberating entire territory of Palestine and dismantling Israel. They know all odds are against them and they are weak fighting with small arms the most modern military backed by most powerful country in the world. However, he claimed that due to resistance led by Hamas, the atrocities came down. He was rattling out statistics to prove that number of Palestinian casualties for every Israeli soldier killed was much less compared to a few years ago. But the question is would that lead them anywhere near inflicting any harm to Israel? Hamas wants to establish Islamic State in which all citizens, including the Jew would enjoy freedom of religion. Why not Secular state then? Secular state would also mean, in their understanding immoral and irreligious state. The settlements would be subjected to Palestinian laws and the refugees would have the right to return to their land.
One local Fatah leader in Bethlehem told us that at the moment Israel was eager to push for resolution of conflict as it is in the best position to bargain now and impose their terms. Palestinians need not enter into any solution in any hurry. Palestinian state is in the Israeli interest as they would get it on their terms. His resolve was to fight for implementation of UN resolution 194 which calls for right of the Palestinian refugees to return to their land. He also felt that we should fight against any violation of Human rights by the Israeli state. That essentially meant fight for one secular democratic state where Jews and Arabs all would be equal and enjoy all democratic rights. Israel is terrified of such a solution—Arabs having democratic rights with right of return. Jews would be in a minority in such a state.
Jeff Halper, a leading intellectual working against house demolitions through maps explained various positions of interest groups. He also explained that Israeli State was far worst than the Apartheid state of South Africa, particularly in two respects—South Africa at least provided infrastructure that state should to the Bantustans inhabited by natives. Israel heavily taxes the Palestinians to provide subsidized infrastructure to Jewish settlements, including water, roads and security, while the same were denied to the Palestinians. The natives were at least citizens of Bantustans as it were and required permits to enter the areas inhabited by the Whites. Palestinians are not considered human at all. The second respect in which the situation of Palestinians was worst than that of the natives in South Africa was that they were needed at least as labourers. The Palestinians are not needed even as source of cheap labour to the Israelis. They were not given permits to visit areas under Israel even for employment. They were sort of eyesore which has to be kept out of sight and hence road networks for Jews. Jeff Halper felt there were no takers for any other solution than the two state solution. We shared our experience of two state solution and the Indian partition that had caused large scale human tragedies on both sides of the dividing line and left the Muslims in India much weakened and at the mercy of the majority, though India was a secular state and the position of Muslims was much better. There are Arab citizens of Israel who are in minority and about whom no one is bothering.
Another fine intellectual, whose name is slipping out of my memory explained to us in detail through his power point projections of maps how Israel had continuously encroached on Palestinian territory reducing Palestinian state to a group of disconnected ghettos as if the nation was divided into hundreds of pieces. His solution—settlements out, two states and refugees to be resettled on a corridor granted by Israel to connect West Bank to Gaza Strip.
This was the range of visions for peace that we encountered in Palestine. Though Palestine seems to be weak, it is our responsibility to stand up for implementation of International law and UN resolutions and create a strong public opinion against violation of any human rights by the Israeli state. Apartheid regime in South Africa was dismantled not only on the strength of struggle within South Africa but also due to the important role played by the international community. As individuals we need to boycott Israeli goods and goods of any company doing business with the Israeli State. We need to pressurize through all the institutions on whom we may be commanding any influence to divest from Israeli economy, Israeli State and Israeli companies, including our religious institutions. The struggle against South African Apartheid regime was led by Church calling for divestment of church funds in South African companies and leading the international community in that regards. Finally the international community should lead the UN impose trade embargo on Israel till it obeys international law and UN resolutions. Today this may seem far fetched but in my humble opinion, this seems to be our role. Weak Palestinian side negotiating peace with Israel cannot resolve the conflict equitable and with the spirit of justice towards all. Let us all spread this word of boycott, divest and trade embargo to the best of our abilities. If Israel walks away with inequitable solution I must also blame myself for not doing enough.
My Palestine Visit - I My Palestine Visit - II My Palestine Visit - III
Combatants for Peace Our Stay in Beit Sahour
Hebron and Ibrahimi Mosque Palestine People’s Visions for Peace
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